12.21: St. Andrews

I took the Coastal Trail through places like Scotlandwell and Windygates as I headed to St. Andrews. I stopped in Elie and walked along the edge of Ruby Bay to reach the headlands where the Firth of Forth meets the North Sea. There is a ruin there called Lady's Tower; it was built so the lady of the land would have a place to change her clothes or rest. There were two men walking their dogs on the headlands and each had two dogs, no leashes. Extremely obedient animals. They looked like a commercial for Scotland. The air was cold and crisp. It was absolutely incredible.

Back on the road to St. Andrews. Found a parking place though I'm pretty sure I went the wrong way in the parking lot to get to it. Parking seems somewhat random; too often there are cars parked in directions that seem not quite right. Sort of like, "Here's some space. That'll do." I found the Tourist Information office where I got a very useful map. I went first to the Cathedral ruins, which were absolutely amazing. I got my token and went in to St. Rules Tower, which was disconcerting because the staircase is so very narrow and so very circular and the place is somewhat claustrophobic. But it was fascinating to see the place.

After the Cathedral, I wandered down South Street and around to find the Old Golf Course. Walked across the pathway in the middle of the fairway of the 18th hole of the Old Course and took a picture of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club. Then I walked across to the West Sands and up to the Royal and Ancient Golf Club. It is quite impressive, even for a golf hacker like myself. I walked around a bit more--there were golfers on the course, of course--then up The Scores to the Castle ruin. I walked out along the harbor wall and took a picture of the Castle. Then did a quick tour of the Castle itself before finding a cafe for a toastie and a pot of tea.

I went back to a few shops after I'd toured St. Andrews--a lot of walking! Found a sweet shop and bought a caramel shortie and a rhubarb tart. The caramel shortbread--shortbread with a layer of caramel and then a layer of chocolate--was delicious. The rhubarb tart was no my favorite.

Back at the Tourist Information Board I asked why so many of the doors in St. Andrews were painted a dark blue. The women at the counter looked puzzled. So there isn't a reason they're painted that color; they just are. Could have been a trend for a while. I was asked where I'm from and when I said "Chicago," one of the women said, "Ah. The Windy City, isn't it?".

I drove to Falkland Palace on my way back and did a little walking around, but it was getting dark and I was quite tired. Dinner again at Jocks before a long hot bath and bed. It was much quieter in the pub that night and a couple of the servers lingered at my table to talk with me a bit. Americans are not a novelty at that hotel, but it seemed it's rare they have an opportunity to just to talk. Odd to be a sort of species about which others are curious. All in all, though, another very good day in Scotland.

Some Scottish odds and ends

When I got my ticket at Stirling and had a choice to make, the clerk said, "It's up to yourself." Made me smile. Detours are called "diversions." A yield sign states "Give Way." No lifts (elevators) in most of the hotels because so many of them are converted from old somethings, and few rooms on the ground floor because so many of the places are converted from old somethings so the ground floor is reception, the lounge, dining areas, etc. New Year's is Hogmanay, though most had no idea why it was called that. It seems to be a good reason to party excessively as the celebrations can start on 12/30 and continue until 1/3 or later. Some of the smaller villages have block parties so all the restaurant bars and pubs are just open. Sounds like a wild time. There is a tradition of first-footing, however, which means being the first person to cross the threshold of the home of a friend or neighbor and bringing an appropriate symbolic gift. Apparently that it still important in some of the smaller villages and towns.

12.20: Stirling Castle and Kinross, and some driving miscellany

The young man from Thrifty arrived a bit early with my Hyundai Sonata and was very conscientious about making sure I knew where the petrol cap was and to use unleaded petrol (marked with a green handle at the pumps, like home--and that surprised him). After I loaded up the car, I did a few laps of the parking lot at the hotel before venturing on the road. I stayed in the left lane for a long time until I got more comfortable driving from the right side of the car but on the left side of the road. And got a wee more comfortable driving the roundabouts and figuring out the signposts and exits. The Scottish, by the way, are very aggressive drivers.

The narrow streets in the villages and towns were a bit disconcerting, especially with cars parked on both sides of the road. So the drivers dive in between parked cars to yield to an oncoming driver and there's some sort of agreement about who yields when if cars are parked on both sides forcing single track driving. There was the random car parallel parked (and I use that loosely because it often looked as though the driver had simply dived into the parking place) facing the wrong way, which caused me occasional panic until I got used to it. The driving situation got really challenging when there were trucks and tight curves in the road. And when the Scottish Executive Council puts up street signs that tell you to slow down and that the turn is really tight, believe the signs.

Lots of "bendy roads" in Scotland with not much shoulder except on the main roads--the bigger M or A carriageways. Because there are so many roundabouts to control and direct traffic, signals were rare except at construction sites or in the bigger cities, such as Aberdeen. But the signals amused me because they go from red to amber for a few seconds before going to green as well as from green to amber to red. I liked that sort of forewarning. There were many occasions in the countryside when there were no numbers on the signposts though a map may have shown a number. So you really need to know where you're going or the towns through which you might travel, though the numberless signposts were often for what we might call backroads.

The tour of Stirling Castle itself was quite wonderful. There's an imposing view of the Wallace Monument from the esplanade. One of the best parts of the tour was the visit to the chapel and the explanation of the tapestries that once hung there. There were two re-created tapestries in the chapel, two of the original seven. Each took about two years to weave. The public is allowed to go to the tapestry studio to read more about the tapestries and to watch the weavers, but there are no photos allowed. The work is incredibly manually intensive and it was amazing to watch a weaver in action.

After a scone and tea, I drove by the Wallace Monument and then moseyed to Kinross to The Green Hotel. It is a lovely place with a leisure complex (as opposed to fitness center, or centre). In addition to a "smart" restaurant, there is also Jocks, which is named in honor of the Black Watch Regiment which recruited a lot from the Kinross area.

There is a curling club attached to The Green, so after my dinner and a quick trip to the grocery store, I went to watch the curling. I noticed a sign in the club that stated the Kinross Curling Club was established in 1668! I'd been told earlier I'd have to check with the ice master to see if I could play. Yea, not so much. When I went to the viewing area to watch, there were three sheets of women and one of men. The women ranged in age from about mid-30s to much older; I'd guess even early 80s. There was a couple up in the viewing area, both dressed up but they might have been joining the groups after the curling for their Christmas parties, and they were giving a running commentary on the action on two of the sheets. I learned a lot from watching and listening. Those folks take their curling seriously, but also have a lot of fun.

Glasgow redux

A few more notes on Glasgow as I went to the Cafe Andaluz for dinner on Tue, 12/19. I tried black (blood) pudding. It came with apple mashed potatoes, but I ended up mixing my chorizo and mash with the black pudding. Finished my meal with coffee, and it was seriously strong coffee.

When I got back to the hotel to pack for leaving the next day, I turned on the TV. No cable or digital TV at the Crowwood hotel, but I opted not to watch BBC1 or BBC2 but turned to Channel 5 and watched CSI: NY. That was a bit disorienting, but I learned later that the CSI shows are fairly popular in the UK.

Glasgow

I arrived in Scotland on Monday, 12/18 without any drama. Safe flight, no problems through Customs in Manchester though the man who stamped my passport did think it a bit odd I'm traveling alone. But I showed him my itinerary and he was fine.

Safe trip to Glasgow on a Dash 8-300 (I was sitting next to the wing so could watch the props on my side) and then had a Peugeot minivan for a taxi to my hotel. The girls who checked me in at the hotel were eager to tell me about catching the bus to Glasgow and told me all about the shopping places.

I had no problems catching the bus and just wandered around to get my bearings. I wandered to the River Clyde, then up and around the shopping areas to George Square and the University of Strathclyde. Getting to the university meant climbing up some hills that reminded me of Seattle!

I caught an afternoon bus back to the hotel and took a bit of a nap before dinner. Had a lovely supper of sausage and tatties with a nice pint of Velvet. What a yummy beer!

Got up late this morning--still recovering from the trip--but have had plenty of time to tour and visit places in Glasgow. I stopped for a coffee and then to listen to a Baroque quintet from St. Petersburg playing on Buchanan Street. They were very good. I bought one of their CDs as I figured it might be hard to find it back in the States. Then I took the underground over to Kelvinbridge.

My first stop was the College of Piping where they give lessons for folks to become proper pipers, but there's also a wee museum. It was quite fascinating.

My next stop was a used bookstore on Great Western Road. I couldn't help it. I bought only 2 books--Scottish fiction by Scottish writers. Why not?

Then down Otago Street and over to Kelvin Way to Kelvingrove Park. A huge HILLY park. Up and over and around, just wandering and looking and taking a few pics. Ended up on Dumbarton Rd to Church St to University Place and went in the south gate of the University of Glasgow. Didn't mean to go that route, but I didn't realize there was a fence along Church St until I traveled too far. Chugged up hills through campus to visit the Hunterian Museum, but it's closed, but did go to the Visitor's Centre and a few other places in the area before going back to the underground to return to Glasgow City Centre.

Heard a solo piper on Buchanan St, but he wasn't very good. Had a bacon & brie toastie at a sandwich shop in Royal Exchange Square, then back up to George Square to Rottenrow Park to Taylor Street to Cathedral Street.

Visited Glasgow Cathedral, which is beautiful, breathtaking, and eerie. The current organist--dressed in a kilt with a choir robe over his kit--told me about the 5000-pipe organ. I can only imagine the sound with those vaulted ceilings! Then I tried imagining the lower church area lit only by torches rather than electric light. After visiting St. Mungo's tomb and Blackadder Aisle, I went over to the museum and then wandered across the bridge to the Glasgow Necropolis. It's a massive place, but it was getting late and I was getting tired and wanted to get back for a cup of tea.

So here I am at Caffe Nero on St. Vincent having tea and updating my blog. It's been an extraordinary day. Lovely weather and delightful sights.

I head northeast tomorrow AM, though I'll be up early enough for breakfast I can assure you! I'm nervous and excited about driving, so will study my maps a bit tonight.

Departure day!!

It's been a crazy couple of days getting ready to get ready to go. Lots of last minute things at work, odds and ends shopping for the trip, odds and ends things around the house. I came down with a head cold on Wednesday and skipped the office holiday party on Friday night to stay home and rest. . . and finish my grading for the end of the term. I still sound a bit like a foghorn, but my head is fairly clear so I should be fine to fly.

I noticed that my flight arrangements indicated British Airways but operated by American Airlines out of Chicago, so I thought I should call to check. Even the American Airlines reservation guy was a little stumped, but he checked the departure gate information so now I know where I need to be later today.

My grades are done, bills are paid, and zillion little reminder notes being gathered up as I finish packing to go. I've checked the weather in Scotland--it's not going to be fabulous but that's okay. I've got a raincoat and I'll be wearing my hiking boots. It's going to be fine.

Excitement builds

I have my travel vouchers so I have proof that hotels are booked for me! My international cell phone will arrive tomorrow--my travel agent Ellen Morse negotiated a nice deal for me. Most of the things I've ordered for the trip have arrived so I've been able to practice pack. I need to do some travel food shopping, but that's about it. I've sent copies of my itinerary to my family and a few friends. I've taken care of the mail and the newspaper and notified neighbors. I bought a new travel journal. I've got a few more odds and ends to get yet, but nothing major.

I've some other work-related and holiday-related things that I need to do over the next few days, but I'm mostly ready to go. Yep, pretty darned excited.

The weather outlook isn't looking too fabulous, but I knew it would be gray and rainy this time of year. As long as I can still do some walking and see some of the countryside and take great gulps of North Sea air, I'm fine with that.

Preparations well underway

I decided I wanted to spend the winter holiday in Scotland about 3 weeks ago. I started doing some research online but realized that the time difference was going to make booking hotels very difficult. So I switched my research to find a travel agent. I sent email to 5 different travel agents and only 1 responded. She had already done some preliminary work for me, and when we talked just before Thanksgiving Day, we were well on our way to a great working relationship.

It seemed that in no time she had worked with her agents to develop a wonderful itinerary for me based on the specifications I'd given her, which were minimal. So I have flights booked and hotels booked, including Christmas Eve Day and Christmas in the Highlands, which was one of the most important specifications.

So far I'm thrilled with the work Ellen Morse has done for me. I'm looking forward to working through the final details with her the week before I leave.

I've done further research about weather, so I had to do (really, I had to) some online shopping for some clothing. Because I live in the Chicagoland area, all of the clothing makes sense for activities at home in the winter. Even the boots. Really.

I already have a set of converters for electrical outlets, so I'm fine there. I just need to clarify my best options for a phone while I'm the UK. As of this moment I'm not planning to take my laptop with me, but I know there are Internet cafes in the larger cities. I'm guessing I'll have access in a number of areas in the country. I'll ask Ellen what she thinks before making that final decision.

Because I plan to do a lot of sightseeing and walking around, I'm not worried about "dress up" clothes though I've been told people will be dressing for Christmas Eve dinner and Christmas Day luncheon. I'll have to find out yet how formal that is at the place I'm staying so I can plan accordingly. I'm not worried about clothes but the shoe requirements of said clothes. Yep, it's all about the shoes!

I've taken up curling this year and one of the places at which I've been booked has its own curling facility. How fun is that? Okay, for me it's fun. All in all, I'm very excited about this trip. Now back to work so I can take actual vacation the whole time I'm away!