12.21: St. Andrews

I took the Coastal Trail through places like Scotlandwell and Windygates as I headed to St. Andrews. I stopped in Elie and walked along the edge of Ruby Bay to reach the headlands where the Firth of Forth meets the North Sea. There is a ruin there called Lady's Tower; it was built so the lady of the land would have a place to change her clothes or rest. There were two men walking their dogs on the headlands and each had two dogs, no leashes. Extremely obedient animals. They looked like a commercial for Scotland. The air was cold and crisp. It was absolutely incredible.

Back on the road to St. Andrews. Found a parking place though I'm pretty sure I went the wrong way in the parking lot to get to it. Parking seems somewhat random; too often there are cars parked in directions that seem not quite right. Sort of like, "Here's some space. That'll do." I found the Tourist Information office where I got a very useful map. I went first to the Cathedral ruins, which were absolutely amazing. I got my token and went in to St. Rules Tower, which was disconcerting because the staircase is so very narrow and so very circular and the place is somewhat claustrophobic. But it was fascinating to see the place.

After the Cathedral, I wandered down South Street and around to find the Old Golf Course. Walked across the pathway in the middle of the fairway of the 18th hole of the Old Course and took a picture of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club. Then I walked across to the West Sands and up to the Royal and Ancient Golf Club. It is quite impressive, even for a golf hacker like myself. I walked around a bit more--there were golfers on the course, of course--then up The Scores to the Castle ruin. I walked out along the harbor wall and took a picture of the Castle. Then did a quick tour of the Castle itself before finding a cafe for a toastie and a pot of tea.

I went back to a few shops after I'd toured St. Andrews--a lot of walking! Found a sweet shop and bought a caramel shortie and a rhubarb tart. The caramel shortbread--shortbread with a layer of caramel and then a layer of chocolate--was delicious. The rhubarb tart was no my favorite.

Back at the Tourist Information Board I asked why so many of the doors in St. Andrews were painted a dark blue. The women at the counter looked puzzled. So there isn't a reason they're painted that color; they just are. Could have been a trend for a while. I was asked where I'm from and when I said "Chicago," one of the women said, "Ah. The Windy City, isn't it?".

I drove to Falkland Palace on my way back and did a little walking around, but it was getting dark and I was quite tired. Dinner again at Jocks before a long hot bath and bed. It was much quieter in the pub that night and a couple of the servers lingered at my table to talk with me a bit. Americans are not a novelty at that hotel, but it seemed it's rare they have an opportunity to just to talk. Odd to be a sort of species about which others are curious. All in all, though, another very good day in Scotland.